A challenge - An experience - A success
With all this talk on vietnamese food and it literally making my taste buds tingle at the memory of it all, surely it’s about time to cater for a Vietnamese dinner party.
Timing working in its mysterious ways – a friend enquired for a dinner party. I mentioned a Vietnamese themed night and they went for it. Then… the challenge began.
Yes I’ve been a chef for 13 years but at no point in my career had I been taught how to make Vietnamese food. The thing is, being a chef we create from our heads. It’s as if were filled with innovative food ideas buzzing around constantly without having to look at recipes.
Things were different this time. This was something new. My memory and notes on the food I had taken while devouring my way through Vietnam wouldn’t be enough combined with my chef brain.
Research… U tube – Thankyou! Soooooooo much
I’ve mentioned Helen before in my spring roll post. She really was great, watching her cooking methods for some of the dishes was a huge help. Mmmm although a little fear was put into my head by a Vietnamese lady from an asian shop in Brighton... telling me 'you cant just make them, you need to know how'. So after this advise I took my sweet time and with precise timings I mastered the technique to a yum spring roll.
I must confess that the steamed pork buns nearly broke me. By broke me I mean ‘when a chef has that fear or slight panic they may not make it’ .Thankfully I didnt reach that stage. After a few practices, on the actual night they came out so beautiful I could have cried (seriously) anyway more details later.
Some recipes and the methods for a few of the dishes below – I learned that 'method' is critical, especially with steamed pork buns.
I can’t even emphasise just how much I learnt myself from taking on this vietnamese dinner party. Coming out of my comfort zone of posh nosh, food in sports nutrition or good old street food to whole new way of cooking.
Throughout the night at each course I explained how it was made and how to eat it. Unlike us westerners who have a plate of food with cutlery this just isn’t the way in Vietnam. You assemble your own dishes with chopsticks or hands. Just making the whole experience more authentic, more in keeping, almost taking you there to each region. To be honest I dont normaly explain the food when catering for dinner parties but the guests seemed to be so intrigued by the new food that they were asking me questions as each plate came out. Its always a pleasure when the guests are lovely too :)
The 7 course Vietnamese menu for 5 people
Goi Cuan Fresh spring rolls – crisp pancetta – prawns – chives – vermicelli noodles – lettuce - peanut hoisin dipping sauce
(Inspired by Hoi An)
Beef Pho – Vietnamese both – Rice noodles – Thai basil – mint - salad mix
(inspired by Hanoi)
Thit Heo Quay Vietnamese crispy pork belly
(inspired by Hanoi)
Banh Xeo– Vietnamese rice flour pancake - prawns – bean shoots – Thai basil – Mint – large salad leaves – Dipping sauce
(inspired by Ho chi Minh / Saigon)
Bun Bao - Steamed pork Buns – sweet carrot shallot filling
(inspired by Hue)
Seared Scallops – morning glory – Mirin – Hoisin glaze
(Inspired by morning glory – everywhere)
Coconut mango cheesecake – mango lime compote
(inspired by the Mango rooms in Hoi Ann)
As promised here are some recipes and tips for a few of the courses
Goi Cuan - Fresh spring rolls
TIPS (That no one tells you)
When you dip the rice pancakes into the plate of warm water – count to 5 seconds. This is perfect – let the access water drip off and start rolling. You may think it’s too firm but it isn’t they roll perfectly and without disintegrating.
Most recipes I saw had pork belly in them – Try crispy pancetta – It adds a crisp texture to the spring roll – the salty pancetta also compliments the fresh prawns inside
Follow the rolling method in Helens video for more help
Rolling in this way makes the ingredients visible to the eye. So you see the pancetta and the prawns.
The dipping sauce – Very important
x 1 tbs peanut butter - x 5 tbs hoi sin sauce - x 3 cloves garlic -x 1 tbs sugar - x 1 fresh chilli finely chopped - crushed peanuts
(for the top)
Mix all together - if its too thick add some liquor - a dash of fish sauce is good - serve in a small dipping ramekin with the crushed peanuts on top.
Beef Pho - Beef broth soup
Tips
I found a recipe online – with something very different to what we do here in England.
The shallots – ginger – garlic – add to a hot pan ‘dry’ – almost charring them with their skins on till coloured – then peel the char off – then add these vegetables to your broth when cooking – hey presto – amazing flavour without the charred bits adding a new depth to the flavour.
Marinade your beef – Makes a huge difference
Do not forget your lettuce leafs and herbs esp the Thai sweet basil – it’s this aromatic combination that makes the soup all the more exciting in your mouth
'How to'
Let your beef broth cook away - I added beef trim I had left over - skimming the broth as it cooked - Add fresh chilli if you like it spicy - cook your rice noodles in water then refresh them in cold water to prevent them from sticking - wash your salad leaves and herbs - set the aside in the bowl you will serve them in - strain your beef trim and add the fresh slithers of marinated beef just 10 minutes before serving.
Easy as that. When your happy with your broths flavour - serve - I added to room temperature noodles to the serving soup bowls with a sprinkle of spring onion and chilli on top - poured the Pho over the noodles - let the guests help themselves to the fresh salads and herbs.
This should make for some excitement at the table, encouraging everyone to have some fun with the new experience.
Thit Heo Quay - Vietnamese crispy pork belly
WOW... LOVE this cooking method. The skin comes out like a dream and the pork stays succulent - Cut into bite size pieces when serving
'How to'
Rub 1 – for the skin
1 tsp vinegar – 2 tsp salt – mix till dissolved
Rub 2 – For the marinade
Recipes recommend 5 spice but I added chilli/ ginger / garlic to add more depth – can also buy duck or pork seasoning in Asian shops
Cooking method
Make sure the pork belly is dry – cut 1 inch thick cuts down the flesh side – 2cm apart
Marinade in Rub 2 overnight flesh side down – Marinade Rub 1 on the fat side
Do not mix the rubs – the skin must stay dry and no rub 2 marinade is to touch the skin
Next day - Cook at 200 degrees skin side down for 20 minutes
Remove from oven turn the belly over – skin side up – pat dry and add rub 1 again to the skin – cook 20 mins
Remove from oven make sure skin dry and add rub 1 again to the skin/ fat – ensuring fat side up again – cook 20 mins
DONE!
Leave to rest at room temperature – when cutting turn over skin side down and hear the crisp fat on your pork – keep board dry to keep skin beautiful and crispy
It’s that easy… 20…20…20 @200 degrees
Most chefs look at this cooking method in doubt as we are so used to slow cooking pork belly. Please try this 'chefs' it works a treat.
Seriously this cooking method is unexpectedly wonderful. The pork is succulent and so flavoursome in your mouth. As your trying to work out the ingredients your jaw is bitting down on the perfectly crispy skin. Mmmm enjoy!
Banh Xeo - Vietnamese pancake
You may remember I spoke about these in a previous post. They vary from region to region. For the dinner party I went with the Hoi Chi Minh version with a little extra addition from Hanoi's inspiration.
The crisp pancake filled with prawns - spring onion - chicken satay - side of the crunchy salad - side of the fresh herbs - tasty dipping sauce
This recipe took me by surprise because wen I was eating these pancakes travelling I honestly presumed they had egg in them. They dont! They are made with its very own Bahn Xeo flour ( bought from an asian shop in china town - London)
Super easy to make.. quick.. YUMMY… the guests loved the surprise. When I told them pancakes they didn't expect to assemble their very own vietnamese creation.
Cut pancake
Roll inside lettuce leaf with herbs
Dip and eat
Heres the recipe
Pancake batter
12 oz Banh Xeo flour Mix all with a whisk before adding the spring onion
1 tsp turmeric Set aside till ready to cook
14 oz coconut milk
1 bunch chopped spring onion
Salt - Pepper
The filling -
Shell on prawns cooked - peeled - sliced in half
Succulent chicken satay ( this is optional)
Bean sprouts
Fresh Thai basil - fresh mint
Chinese lettuce ( keep larger leaves) - if not available iceberg or Lollo Rosso is ok
Dipping Sauce (you can adjust this to your preference - I added more chilli)
1/2 cup fish sauce
2 tsp vinegar
1 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup shredded carrot
1 tsp finely chopped garlic
1/2 tsp finely chopped chillies
'How to' Cook (5 mins )
Heat a good non stick frying pan - add half a ladle of mix to the pan - leave to cook on medium heat till you can see its firming - add the prawns - bean spouts - fold over - put lid on if needed - cook few minute till golden crispy beautiful
Serve chicken satay - herbs - lettuce on the side - the tasty dipping sauce - enjoy :)
Bun bao - Steamed pork buns
The buns that nearly had me. These pork buns are a treat in your mouth. As you bite through the delicate bun trying to imagine how its so fluffy and light. After research and deliberation heres the secret -
The right flour - use a mixer - proving again and again and again. Then hey presto - a beautiful steamed fluffy white bun appears
Obviously it wasnt that easy for me argggggggg! Recipes online being vague, they dont quite mention the ‘must haves’ or the ‘must do’s’. I was third time lucky on the actual day of the dinner party. Well, when I opened the bamboo lid steamer and saw those perfect little buns I nearly cried. That may seem over the top but when your a perfectionist and a chef that LOVES food you only want to create the best you possibly can ;p
Great thing with these buns - go CRAZY! The filings in Vietnam vary in regions as most other Vietnamese dishes. My favourite was the sweet BBQ pork so I made my own version. You can make them savoury or sweet, whatever you fancy. TIP - just dont make the filling wet.
Heres the recipe and TIPS
The filling
As I said before - go with what you like. For mine I used -
Pork trim from my pork belly - sweated off some shallots - carrots - added tomato puree - honey - cooked out till a nice glazed mix - added a little vinegar - creates a glossy mix ready for my buns.
The buns
600g plain super white flour
7.5 grams dried yeast
7.5g baking powder
112.5 caster sugar
300g milk powder
7.5 g vegetable oil
warm water to bind
Cooking method
Throw all the ingredients in the bowl - mix then add to mixer - blitze then add the warm water until an airy dough - It should be a lovely soft dough not something that resembles bread dough- if it is not like this put it back in the mixer again until airy.
Knead into a ball and leave to rise ( prove ) until double size - in a warm place with a damp cloth on top
Knead again - shape in to a log - split into 8 balls (if you want large) and 16 if you want small buns. I promise they will grown to double the size in the steamer so dont worry if they look small.
Mould the balls into shape and leave again to prove 20 - 30 mins - again under a damp cloth in a warm place
Roll the balls out - remember to dust the surface with four - leaving the edges of the circle thiner - this is so you can pinch the buns closed once filled
Circle diameter once rolled
Large buns - 12cm
smaller buns - 6-7cm
Add the filling till a nice mound - use common sense - the bun has to pinch closed
Once filled - depending if you want them shiny size up or pinch side up - leave to prove one more time - under damp cloth in warm place
SO… thats 3 'three' proves. VERY important.
OK, time too cook. While the buns are proving for the last time put the water on to boil for the bamboo steamer. Make sure the water is shallow in the pan - water not touching the bottom of the steamer.
Cook the buns for 6 - 12 mins depending on the size.
TIP - wrap a cloth around the lid of the bamboo basket so water doesn’t drip on the buns while steaming.
DONE - Tear your delicate buns apart and see the fluffy amazingness that you've accomplished. Nom Nom Nom
Seared Scallops
This isn't vietnamese but it was a nice addition for the dinner party - tweaked with some vietnamese flavours - a lovely course
The Scallops - 'How to' properly
Make sure they are clean - best way to do this is - 2 bowls of cool water - 1 with a pinch salt - 1 without - 1st rinse in the salted water then in the unsalted water - leave on a piece of kitchen towel to dry
To cook - make sure the non stick pan is nice and hot - add little olive oil - season the scallops with salt before adding to the pan - put in nicely - you should see and hear that they are colouring - when one side is coloured turn them over with a spoon or tongs - the colour should be evenly golden brown - add a small piece of butter - you'll see it foam - with your spoon pour this over the scallops a few times while they cook in the pan - cook how you like them - ideally fish you'd be just undercooked so that by the time it reaches the plate it is perfect.
TRUTH - Believe it or not ' listening/ hearing' is an important part of cooking. Hearing the crackling of fat (fast and slow) can tell you a lot. Sounds strange but true.
The vegetables - Simple - morning glory with sautéed garlic - split green beans longways (blanched) - A hoisin fish sauce glaze - remember to season as you go
Assemble - serve - eat - YUM
Sadly no pic of the cheesecake but aboves how they felt when they ate it ;)
Coconut mango lime cheesecake
Hummmmm, when I was in Vietnam the most deserts I found/ ate consisted of waffles - Pandan cakes - pandan ice cream - coconut ice cream or just a Vietnamese iced amazing coffee. WOW! Vietnamese coffee served in little metal coffee strainers - a glass of ice with condensed milk in the bottom then watch the dark coffee trickle over your ice cubes - 30 seconds later - coffee heaven spilling over my tongue.
The point being I made up a desert resembling some vietnamese flavours combining it with one of the english favourites - cheesecake
'How to' make
The base - digestive biscuits blitzed up - add melted butter until it binds - set in the jars / cups or moulds your making it in - leave in fridge for an hour or so till it sets
The filling - 1 packet Philadelphia cream cheese - Rachel's organic coconut yogurt 1/3 pot - desiccated coconut x 2 tbs - x 2 lime zest and juice - caster sugar to taste - x 1 ripe mango diced ( save half back for the top)
Mix in a bowl with a spatular till fully combined- should be creamy texture - not to thin - looking like a loose cream cheese - add the sugar to taste.
Spoon into your moulds ( I used kilner jars) - leave in the fridge overnight or few hours if your pushed - spoon the diced mango on the top - you can add some desiccated coconut to the top if you'd like - DONE
This recipe is my own version - its not firm with gelatine - it light and fresh - your spoon dips into it softly rather than the spoon cutting it. The ladies feedback ' they loved it'
There it it - I hope you liked the menu and recipes - dont forget the tips